Day 15: Touring the Tetons

River rafting:

This morning we woke up to the annoying alarm at 6:00am as we had an early 6:45am nature rafting adventure on the Snake River. Mornings are pretty chilly so we layered up and headed to the rendezvous location at the lodge lobby. We were hoping to grab a quick coffee in the lodge before hand but were told we didn't have the time. :( We were quickly divided into two groups of 12 and loaded into vans with large rafts in tow. During the 15 minute drive to the launch location we chatted with a lovely couple from Brookfield, IL (7 miles south of Oak Park) who happened to drive a southerly route from Illinois to the Wyoming. They were spending a few days at the Tetons before traveling a northerly route back to Illinois. A lot of boring plains driving for a few days at the park I thought. But then again the same could be said about me as some of Montana was brutally snoozeville. :-) Once we said we were from Oak Park the woman exclaimed that she is employed at our very own Oak Park hospital! How nuts is that? I am amazed at how many people I've encountered from my home state!

After a short drive we reached a small boat launch area nestled in the woods. We deboarded the van while the 2 man crew positioned the large raft at the shore's edge. We then listened to some safety information from Wayne our raft operator/tour guide. Swati happily nominated herself to check off the safety list points as Wayne spoke about them to the group. This legally confirms that he actually went over the safety items and that Swati was a witness. After Wayne successfully completed the check list (as confirmed by Swatz) we donned our safety vests and boarded 6 people on one end and the remaining 6 in the other. Wayne, the operator and tour guide, sits in the center as he navigates the river using two large attached oars. Wayne has been conducting river tours for over 40 years and his knowledge of the area is second to none. Swati and I could have easily spent the entire morning listening to Wayne talk on such topics as Wyoming politics, Snake River and the Tetons. It was quite enthralling! We were hoping to see moose while floating down the river but unfortunately they didn't get the memo. We did manage to see several bald eagles perched in trees and soaring above so we quickly forget about the missing moose.

After floating for some 20 or so miles we reached our final destination along the river. We could see the next group of people waiting for us to arrive so they can begin their tour. Wayne navigated the raft to the rivers bank and we de-boarded. We thanked Wayne for such an awesome tour and bushwhacked thought some dense forest to where the tour van was waiting to take us back to the lodge.

Back for breakfast:

After a 30 minute drive we reached the lodge and headed in for breakfast at the cafe. Here we planned the remainder of day. We would take a short drive to Jenny Lake Visitor Center and hike Hidden Falls and Inspiration Point trails. Both trails are on the opposite (western) side of the lake from where the visitor center is situated so we have the option of either hiking around the lake to the trails (about 4 miles) or taking a ferry which drops you smack at the foot of the trail. We would make the decision once we reached the lake. Before heading out we decided to lounge in the comfy sofa's inside the cavernous lodge lobby and enjoy the view of the Tetons off in the distance. We were both a bit tired from our early morning departure and I think I may have dozed off a few times. :)

Hiking in the hills:

We managed to pull ourselves from the clutches of the sofa and make our way to our room where we stocked up on some hiking supplies and headed out. After a short 20 minute drive we reached an extremely crowded Jenny Lake Visitor Center parking lot. After circling around a bit we managed to squeeze our little Versa into a spot. Success! :) Swatz and I decided that a ferry would be the best way to maximize our time hiking at the other side so we immediately headed to the dock. We bought our tickets and after a short wait we boarded the boat. The cool air off the lake was very refreshing and eased sting from the afternoon hot sun. After a 5 minute ride we reached the other side and began the short 1 mile Hidden Falls hike.

Hidden Falls trail is a forest shaded uphill slog that has a few river crossings as it winds its way through the dense woods until you reach the "hidden" waterfall. It is a very popular trail and thus quite crowded with tourists like ourselves. After a while of hiking you could hear the rushing water of the falls which meant we were getting close and our pace increased. We reached the destination and could feel the mist from a nearby waterfall tucked within the forest trees (Hidden Falls). The sound of rushing water all around made for a tranquil setting. After a few minutes of bliss we pressed on until we reached the start of the 700 ft climb to Inspiration Point.

The path up to the point is quite narrow and laden with rocks that could easily send you tumbling over the side. Negotiating the tight areas was a challenge as you had to wait for others in the opposite direction to pass. As we climbed we quickly rose above the tree tops and what sun protection they offered. Eventually we reached the peak and were shocked at what a spectacular view it offered. You could see the entire lake below as well as the glacial moraine that formed it. It was stunning.

While sitting atop Inspiration Point we were "inspired" to push further and venture into Cascade Canyon Trail. The trail essentially begins at Inspiration Point and being flat and in the shade made it more appealing. Besides, we had two hours before the last boat departs so we might as well take advantage. We immediately leave the openness of the ridge and enter into the lushness of the canyon. Almost immediately we saw two carefree elk emerge from the dense forest and begin grazing 50 yards away. 20 feet more and a beaver appeared. We were now completely immersed into forest and it felt amazing. The trail wasn't as crowded in this stretch as I think most people turn back after Inspiration Point. Boy, they were missing the best parts! We ran into a few hikers who said they saw a moose about 30 minutes down the trail near a curvy creek. Swati and I looked at the time and decided to go for it. We were already excited about the elk and beaver but seeing a moose in the wild make us feel like kids on a Easter egg hunt. We approached a clearing within the canyon where you could clearly see the creek as described by the hikers. We then saw a small group of 4 people all pointing their cameras in the same direction. However, we couldn't see what they were photographing. As we approached the pointed over and we could then clearly see a large bull moose laying within the tall grass at the creeks edge. Had they not been there we would have simply walked on by as this guy was very well camouflaged. The last hikers to leave had mentioned that the moose, as indicated by other hikers, has been laying there pretty much all day. The antlers on this moose were absolutely enormous. I would guess they weighed in at 80 pounds or more. Swati and I were now alone watching this guy when he decided to slowly stand! He took his time but finally was up on all fours. I couldn't believe how big this animal was! He slowly made his way into the creek for a quick drink and then slowly walked off behind some trees. As I looked at Swati I realized we each had ear to ear grins on our faces. A small moment I shall cherish forever.

Dull dinner:

We managed to make it back to the boat with plenty of time to spare. We decided to have dinner at the Signal Mountain Lodge restaurant which is on the way back to our lodge. We scored some outdoor seating overlooking Jackson Lake. The sun was hanging low and the shimmering affects off the lake were quite romantic and made for a perfect setting. If only the food and service matched the ambiance... I had a rather boring salad and lack luster cup of chili while Swati wasn't too impressed with her soup and wrap. Furthermore, the wait staff forgot utensils and my beverage and weren't very apologetic. Either way we didn't let that ruin what has already been a great day of adventure.

Bedazzled by Burns

Many visitor centers typically show 1 hour informational films discussing the history of the location you are visiting. Swati loves these films and couldn't wait to see one since she arrived. We tried to see one at Old Faithful but just missed it. We then tried again at the Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Center at the SW entrance of Teton but it's projector was out for repair. The other morning Swati noticed that our lodge airs informational films every night at 9:00PM and tonight's film was "The National Parks: America's Best Idea" by Ken Burns. I've seen this film a few years ago and remembered how good it was so watching it again with Swatz would be enjoyable. We find the room where the film is to play and a massive crowd of Swati, an older gentleman and myself are the only ones present. A lodge employee enters, sets up the projector and inserts the DVD into the player. Everything seems fine but she doesn't have the remote to the DVD player to start the film. We all checked the Sony blueray player for a play button but it didn't have one! You need the remote to make it work! So, she kindly apologizes and leaves the room to look for the remote. After several minutes the older gentleman gives up and decides to leave. The lady returns with another lodge employee but no remote. Will this be the third film that Swati doesn't see on this trip!? How unlucky! The other lodge employee leaves and then comes back with the only remote that says Sony. It isn't the correct one but the film magically starts after randomly pressing the buttons. Woo Hoo!!!! Swati's wish has come true! :-) A fitting way to finish our last evening together in the Tetons!

Day 14: Jaunt to Jackson Lake Lodge

Bike Distance	Avg Speed	Total Ascent	Saddle Time	Calories
44.06 miles	16.0 mph	1371 ft	02:45:10	2458 cal

Woefully Woken:

Bang! Bang! Bang! That is the sound I heard in the early AM hours. I could tell that the sounds came from the proximity of my loop of the campground. It was definitely a bear trying to get inside either a bear box or a dumpster. A minute or so later I heard it again only this time the sound was getting closer! It would seem the bear(s) were methodically moving to each box within the loop. Being a scared city boy I immediately reached for my bear spray as if it were going to be my savior. :) A moment later I could hear a jeep or truck driving slowly down the paved street of the loop. It must be the rangers coming to scare the bear(s) away. They drove the loop twice and eventually the bears must have been driven off as silence returned to the campground. I think I laid there for 30 minutes before eventually nodding off hand still clutching the bear spray...

Last night when Swati dropped me off at my campsite the neighboring campsite(s) were all jammed with a large group. The adjacent site(s) had at least 6 large tents and a massive touring bus was parked in the drive. I had a bad feeling it was going to be trouble. Well, I was right. I woke up at 6AM (precisely when quiet hours expire) to the sounds of young kids and adults making all kinds of noise and meandering about. I was fairly tired from the scavenging bear episode and was hoping to sleep in til 8AM. I tried to cover my ears and ignore them but it was impossible as they started cooking breakfast and taking roll call. It must have been some kid summer camp trip or something. I was mostly upset with the adults for allowing the young (12-14 years olds) to be so loud and obnoxious at such an early time of the morning. I mean c'mon folks you are sharing this campground with other people! I gave up, packed up my site in record time and headed to the grocery store to warm up and get some breakfast.

Today I was to ride 48 miles to Signal Mountain campground in the Grand Teton National Park. Swati, was staying at Jackson Lake Lodge which is 44 miles and on the way to the campground. The plan was to pop in and say hello while on my way to Signal. While having lunch I thought "why am I staying at Signal when I can stay at the Lodge with Swati?". Seems silly to be 4 miles away sleeping in a tent while she is living the good life at a fancy lodge! :) With that my mind was made up.

Sailing through South Yellowstone:

After a short stay at the grocery store cafe I was on the road heading south at 8:45AM. It was another wonderful morning with clear skies and cool temperatures. The rolling hills in south Yellowstone were relaxing and scenic. Today I would pass the continental divide for the last time at 7988ft. Naturally I documented the moment with a photograph. :) A few miles from the continental divide is Lewis Lake. A fairly decent sized lake where many people were either fishing or sightseeing. I took it slow through this portion in order to soak in sights and smells. However, I stopped to gawk at Lewis falls as it was quite breathtaking. The cooling of the mist from the crashing water felt amazingly refreshing.

Fill'er up at Flagg:

Eventually I reached the south entrance to the park and bid my final farewell to one of the most amazing places on earth. I will definitely have to return someday to explore the whole eastern half as there is so much more to see, smell and touch. I knew a biggish climb was approaching at mile 23 of my route so I wanted to take a small second breakfast rest. Conveniently Flagg Ranch Lodge was up ahead. It has a nice general store and outdoor picnic benches. I rolled up and got myself a banana and coffee and sat outside at the picnic table to enjoy the weather. Flagg is the only place with services between Yellowstone and Teton so it is kind of like a little oasis. The place was hustling and bustling with activity. I spoke with a young man who worked there and he said after this weekend it will get really quiet around here. I suppose most families children will be starting school so technically vacation is "over". The young man would be one of the crew to "winterize" the lodge and would staying though most of October. It must get pretty lonesome when most tourists and staff leave I thought. Speaking of leave I should get my butt back on the road!

Trekking to the Tetons:

1 mile after Flagg was the nice 7%er I was expecting. It was only a 600ft or so climb but the coffee and banana were sloshing around inside. It was the breakfast that would keep on giving. Belch! Additionally, I was sucking some serious wind on this climb. This shouldn't be happening I thought as I've climbed several times above 8000ft and this was well below that! I slowed it down a bit in order to reduce my breathing and passed a parked RV. As I pedal past the RV a man shouts "Your Amazing!". I fist pumped and said "thanks"! That single comment made me reflect and think about what I have achieved on this tour. I started reflecting back to day one and the difficulties I had. I then thought about how each climb has gotten easier and easier. It is difficult for me to believe that the biking portion of this trip was almost over. Where has the time gone I thought? I spent so much time planning and it feels like the trip was a time warp. Like it happened in a flash. My mind was reflecting so much that I completed the last 200ft of the climb without even knowing it. As I rolled over the peak I knew the rest was gravy and that I better soak in as much of my surroundings as I can as my trip is almost over....

Joyous Jackson Lake Lodge:

I reached Jackson Lake Lodge around 12:30pm and met Swati outside the main entrance. I left my bike outside as Swati wanted me to experience the view of the Tetons from within the lodge itself. I followed her up a large staircase to a large hall like room with 30 foot floor to ceiling windows looking out on the Tetons. The windows framed the Tetons perfectly. It was a stunning view.

Swati got a room key for me and I headed to the cottage with my bike and left her to her book. I reached the room and decided to sink wash several of my garments as they stunk to high heaven. I think I had to wash my socks 4 times before the water I wrung out was actually "clear". I then did the towel roll drying process which really does a nice job of soaking up much of the water. The process is quite easy. Lay your article of clothing on a dry towel and then roll the towel up with your garment. the process of rolling soaks up much of the moisture making hang drying that much quicker. After 45 minutes of laundry time I then took a nice hot shower. I had to wash my hair three times before the shampoo would actually lather! Gross! :) Once squeaky clean I headed back to the lodge for a bite to eat with Swatz.

Venturing out in the Versa:

While eating lunch we decided that we would spend the rest of the afternoon exploring the Tetons in Swati's rented Nissan Versa. There chose three different routes: HW89 (outer route), Kelly Scenic Drive and Teton drive (inner route).

HW89: The 26 mile drive south down highway 89 provided a nice overall view of the Tetons to the west and antelope flats to the east. However, the road provides zero scenic pull outs or overlooks so overall was rather uninspiring.

Kelly Scenic Drive: At the end of the 26 miles was the Kelly Scenic Drive. It is known for seeing antelope and various other types of local wildlife and did not disappoint. Within in minutes of pulling onto the drive we encountered a large herd of bison crossing the road. We stopped in disbelief and immediately began photographing (from a safe distance). We weren't sure the protocol on passing herds of bison crossing the road so when we saw a pickup truck pass us we decided to follow our blocker. The pickup truck driver obviously lives in the area as he/she seemed quite confident in their bison passing tactics. We simply followed their lead and performed similar bison passing maneuvers. The bison seemed to be used the traffic and would slowly shuffle off the road when we approached. We managed some awesome up close photos of these ugly creatures. I must admit I was like a kid in a candy store.

Teton Drive: The last drive was the more scenic Teton Drive. It gets much closer to the actual mountains and has many turnoffs to enjoy. We stopped at several of them and took awesome silhouette photos of the mountains with the sun setting to the west behind them. As we traveled north we entered Signal Mountain Peak drive. This drive takes you high above to the top of Signal mountain. From up here you can essentially see all of the antelope flats and Jackson Hole in the valley to the east. It was a nice way to end today's activities.

Munch at Moran:

We reached the lodge in time for our 8:45pm dinner reservation for the resident Moran restaurant. We managed to get a window seat and could just barely make out the mountains off in the distance with the little remaining sunlight left. It was a nice romantic evening of dinner and drinks with my lovely wife. Another great day! :)

Day 13: Yellowstone by car

Bike Distance	Avg Speed	Total Ascent	Saddle Time	Calories
0 miles	0 mph	0 ft	00:00:00	0 cal

Morning tea:

It was 7:15am when I woke from my slumber. Another cold but clear morning. I wasn't sure what time Swati would arrive so I started preparing hoping for an early start. I organized my tent, bundled up and headed to the restroom to clean myself up a bit. I then made some hot tea with hopes that it would warm my bones. It was now around 8:30am and still no word from Swatz. I decided to call T-Mobile as I've exhausted my domestic data roaming bandwidth and wanted to know what options I had. This past year Swati and I merged to a family account as it was cheaper. Unfortunately I am not authorized to access the account so they would need to call her for permission. In doing so they woke her up and I was granted access. Unfortunately, I would have to "upgrade" my account to receive more domestic bandwidth. I declined.

Time to kill:

Swatz called around 8:40am indicating she had some follow up work to before heading to the campground. She estimated she would reach around 10:30 or so. I suppose these are the side effects of her newish (1.5 years) career as a realtor. I am still adjusting to her dynamic schedule.

I was in the mood for a coffee so I headed to my new oasis the general store. I sat there for 1.5 hours stealing electricity while sipping coffee and eating hostess mini doughnuts. I returned to camp and Swatz eventually pulled up around 10:45am. Already off to a late start...

Old Faithful:

We reached Old Faithful 11:45am and had just missed her fury. We decided to wait her out and dine for lunch in the Old Faithful lodge cafeteria. It was quite crowded but we eventually worked our way through the maze, got our food and found a table. For once I was out chatting Swati! Hard to believe I know! :) I guess being alone for some time brings out the social in me. :)

We finished up lunch and positioned ourselves close to the geyser. She erupted right on schedule for a spectacular, albeit sulfur stinking, display. The wind currents steered the steam vapor our way resulting in a refreshing sulfur shower! Yuck! :)

We then spent another hour or so at the visitor center before plotting our next target. I was really hoping to drive the complete circumference of the park but since it was mid afternoon we decided to stick with the western side and head 50 miles to Mammoth Hot Springs in the northwestern most edge. As time (darkness) permits we would visit smaller sites of interest on our return drive.

Mammoth Hot Springs:

The town of Mammoth has some historical significance in that it used to be a military base "Fort Yellowstone". This base was constructed around 1895 and its main function was to run and protect Yellowstone National Park. The Army managed Yellowstone from this location for some 32 years before they handed control over to the newly formed National Park Service. Today the fort is fully restored and remains as the National Park Headquarters. The hats worn by the park rangers are actually inspired from the hats worn by the staff at Fort Yellowstone. Pretty cool. Mammoth also has a nice concessions area where people can shop and dine. We had already made dinner plans so we opted to skip this portion of the town and head to the main attraction.

The hot springs at Mammoth were created over thousands of years by hot water fed from Norris Geyser Basin. This water traveled along a fault line, cooled and deposited calcium carbonate. Algae living in the warm pools have tinted the stone and rock shades of brown, orange, red, and green. So, if you can imagine, there are these massive colorful deposits or formations of travertine either submerged or surrounded by hot springs. I highly recommend visiting this site if you are visiting Yellowstone. We didn't walk the entire attraction as time was slipping away and we had collection several other sites to see on out way up here. So, we scurried to the car and retraced our steps south towards the Artists Paintpots.

Artists Paint Pots:

After a short drive we pulled off at the Artists Paint Pots. It is a relatively small geothermal area consisting of a gushing geyser, colorful hot springs and steam vents. Along the 1 mile loop path one can listen to the mud pots plop and gurgle. The iron oxide emissions stain the white mud of the Artists Paint Pots into a colorful array of pastels which are quite pleasing to the eyes. The consistency of the mud pots varies from runny to thick and the mud can shoot up to 15 feet into the air. Yikes! :) We spent about 45 minutes exploring the pots and decided it was time to move on to Gibbon Falls.

Gibbon Falls:

We continued south until we reached the pull out for Gibbon Falls. Gibbon falls is, as one might expect, a water fall on Gibbon River. The pull out is quite nice in that one can see the 84 foot drop without restriction. Not much more that I can say about this other than it was a nice and romantic moment with Swatz! :-) Next on the list was Fountain Paint Pot.

Fountain Paint Pot:

The Fountain Paint Pot is named for the reds, yellows and browns of the mud in this area. The heat in the caldera forces pressurized water up and ultimately expels it forming pools. Gasses within the pools cause bubbles to rise to the surface making blurping sounds. While many of these sites initially look the same you do eventually notice differences that make each unique.

Firehole Lake Drive:

We were now 8 miles from Old Faithful and decided to turn off at Firehole Lake Drive. If one is lucky one can actually witness Great Fountain and White Dome geysers erupt. The problem is that they are unpredictable so knowing when is anyone's guess. Today wasn't our lucky day. That being said, Firehole Spring was pretty amazing as it constantly bubbles. Reminds me of water in a pot on a stove just before it reaches a running boil. This drive was a nice find and am happy it made our list of sites to see.

Grand Prismatic Spring:

Grand Prismatic is the largest hot spring in the US. All I can say is this thing is huge! The deep blue springs edges are teeming with bacteria that produce vibrant reds and greens and all the colors in between. It is truly visual eye candy! With the proper wind direction one can periodically feel the heat from the massive steam clouds rising from the pool. It gives you goose bumps as the heat is mixed with the ambient temperature so you get bursts of warmth followed by the coolness of the wind. A real interesting place to visit. The sun was beginning to hang low in the sky and the window of opportunity to see more was closing. We decided to head back to GrantVillage for dinner at Grant Village Dining Room restaurant.

Delicious Dinner:

After a long day of sight seeing we worked up quite an appetite. Grant Village Dining Room is located about 1/2 mile outside the campground and is nestled in the forest near the lake. The ambiance was nice and the view from the floor to ceiling windows was spectacular. Unfortunately, it was short lived as night was soon upon us. I ordered the wild game meatloaf (elk and bison) while Swati had the vegetable ragout. We both thoroughly enjoyed our meals as we laughed and reminisced about the days events. A perfect ending to a special day with my most favorite person.

Day 12: Technical Difficulties

Bike Distance	Avg Speed	Total Ascent	Saddle Time	Calories
40.46 miles	12.9 mph	2188 ft	03:08:22	2643 cal

Late start:

I didn't bother setting my alarm the night before as today was all about taking my time. After all that is why I pushed so hard the day before. That being said, I still was up at 7:45am. The forecast from yesterday indicated a low of 34F for the evening and early am hours and they were spot on. Fortunately, my 20F sleeping bag kept me snug as a bug in a rug. I reluctantly shed the sleeping bag, changed into my riding clothes and packed up my gear. I then fetched my complimentary coffee and ate my "breakfast skillet" meal. The thermometer indicated 51F when I finally departed Madison are around 9:30am.

Early eye candy:

I headed south and immediately started climbing. I knew there would be at least 2000ft of climbing today just not so soon. After a mile or so I leveled out to Firehole Canyon and could see a field of geysers off to my right. I immediately pulled off to shoot some photos. It is hard to believe that I am standing on one of the largest volcanos on earth and it is so magnificent!

I continued south to the Lower Geyser Basin where the Great Fountain Geyser vents. I then pulled off at Midway Geyser Basin Grand Prismatic Spring for a photo. A large group of Japanese tourists flocked around me and were taking photos. I kid you not! Then they wanted photos with my bike. The only English word that was mixed in with their Japanese was "Specialized" (brand name of my frame). It was comical to watch but fun to be a part of. :)

Old faithful:

After 16 wonderful miles were in the books I could see the entrance for Old Faithful. I exited and after 1.5 mikes of winding entrance road I was there. I didn't realize it was so far off the main road! I pulled up to the geyser at around 11:00am to find out that I missed it by 15 minutes. The next release won't be until 12:15. I planned on stopping here for a break before Craigs Pass anyhow so I I'll wait it out.

I stepped inside the lodge cafe which overlooks the geyser and ordered a large chocolate and vanilla swirl ice cream waffle cone and a coffee. I found a nice table near the window and enjoyed my second breakfast. I headed back outside around 11:45am, positioned my bike and sat down on the ground next to it.

Over the past week my bike had gotten pretty noisy. I've done basic inspections but found nothing. I figured I had some time to kill some why not examine it more thoroughly. Within 30 seconds I found one broken spoke on the rear wheel. I spun it and could not believe how wonky it was. How did I not feel it while riding in wondered. No problem ad I have 4 replacements. Good thing I came prepared! I had the wheel and tire off in literally 3 minutes. I then removed the broken spoke and tried to insert the replacement but hit a major snag. The broken spoke was on the drive line side of the wheel which meant the rear cassette (thing with all the gear rings) had to be removed in order to feed the spoke through the hole on the hub.

Cassette removal requires 2 critical tools; a cassette removal tool (like a special socket) and a chain whip (holds the cassette still when loosening with the special socket). I only had the chain whip with me. How (insert cuss word here) stupid of me to forget that! I tried every McGuiver trick I could think off using the tools I had but it wasn't happening. About that time Old Faithful was erupting so I stopped and shot some photos of my dissembled bike with the geyser erupting in the background. So much for the perfect picture! LOL! I reassembled the bike and told myself to take it nice and slow to Grant Village. I only wish I didn't have like 1200ft of climbing ahead of me as the additional torque could cause more spokes to break. Since I don't really know how long it has been broken I figured I could make it up. Coming down is also a problem since I need to ride the brakes in order to keep the bike under 30mph. Excessive braking can also cause spoke fatigue. Let's hope she stays together! :)

Continental Divide(s) :

On this climb I will pass the Continental Divide twice as I snake my way around the mountain! The first is at an elevation of 8262ft while the second is at 8391ft. The climbing was standard issue 4 to 8 percent over several miles. I took it slow and was extra careful when shifting so as to avoid any drive train jerking. Eventually I reached the first Continental Divide. I stopped for a photo along side the sign. I then descended a few hundred feet and once again had to climb to the second. The climbing wasn't bad but my mood was somewhat soured from the spoke. I really just wanted to get to camp and regroup.

Grant Village:

After a nice albeit cautious rolling downhill I reached Grant Village at around 2:30ish. I setup camp in a nice secluded spot and relaxed for a bit. Grant Village consists of a campground, lodge, general store and two restaurants. I wasn't in the mood to sit at camp so I decided to detach my trailer and ride my injured bike to the store. I didn't really need anything but it seemed like a good way to take my mind off my bike problem.

The store is a combination cafe, grocery and merchandise retailer. I was in the mood for something cold to drink so ordered an ice tea and French fries at the cafe. I then perused the grocery section and bought some tortilla chips and a can of local craft beer. I figured a beer would do me good. :) I packed my goods in my pannier and headed towards the campground. Up ahead I saw two guys riding bikes. I caught up with them and said "hello". I then asked if they happened to have a cassette removal tool not knowing if they even knew what the heck I was talking about. :) He said follow me we might have something in the tool box. Sounds promising!

Bike repair 101:

I followed him to the same loop as mine but instead we turned left to where there are 3 vans loaded with bikes and a ton of people eating BBQ. Turns out they do organized bike trips for people and they happen to be on one now. He checked his toolbox but didn't have the tool. Drats! I noticed he had needle nose pliers and some channel locks. He gave those to me and I scurried back for a second attempt. I used my picnic table as a bike repair standard and managed to remove the cassette using the tools and had the bike reassembled in 25 minutes! The wheel is pretty darn straight too! Yay! I rode back to return the tools and they even let me use their air pump! As I was leaving they said I could come back for BBQ. How nice. I thanked him but kindly declined. I don't want to be too much of a mooch!

No appetite:

I took the bike for a short test ride and could still hear rattles. At least the wheel is fixed I thought and rode back a little disgusted. It was now nearly 5:30PM so I prepared dinner. Tonight's menu is Texas BBQ chicken with tortilla chips and a beer. It smelled and tasted terrific but for some reason I was having a tough time eating. My stomach just didn't feel right. I forced it down anyhow as I know I need the calories.

Bike repair 102:

After dinner I decided it was time to go through the bike more thoroughly as all the rattles and squeaks annoy me. The first issue I discover was that the front fork was a little wobbly. It must have worked itself a tad loose from the bearing assembly so I made the necessary adjustment. Fixed! I then noticed that my front wheel was moving in ways it shouldn't when applying and releasing the front brake. The front wheel quick release was actually not tight enough! Holly crap! This has been like this since day one?! Stupid move DK. Earlier in the trip I thought it was the front fender. I tightened the wheel and viola! Good as new! She is much quieter now! :)

Early night:

I have a slight head ache tonight and hope it is from all the bike drama and not from the cold weather ride from the day before. One thing is for sure. I am really looking forward to seeing Swatz tomorrow morning! Night all.... Zzzzz

Day 11: Hello Wyoming!

Bike Distance	Avg Speed	Total Ascent	Saddle Time	Calories
83.11 miles	16.0 mph	2272 ft	05:11:03	5425 cal

Idaho Fires:

I've been meaning to write about this since Sula but kept forgetting. At the moment there are many wild fires scattered throughout Idaho. The smoke from the northern most fires has been carried into much of Montana due to the southerly winds. It was pretty thick through most of my stretch from Sula to Ennis. So much so that I was a bit concerned about breathing it in. The craziest was in Dillion when it looked like a giant storm cloud was approaching. When I say giant I mean it filled the sky and eventually caused an earlier than normal dusk when it blocked the sun's rays! Even the campground host was a bit concerned.

Route options:

I checked the weather forecast last night and a cold front was expected to move into Montana during the early am hours. This would bring gusty northerly winds, a 50% chance of precipitation and a 20 degree temperature drop for most of my morning ride.

Westfork campground was only 32 slightly uphill miles from Ennis. If the wind was at my back I should be able to push forward beyond Westfork as I'm getting tired of the Montana plains scenery and would like to get closer to Yellowstone. I plotted two options:

Option 1: Push to Bakers Hole campground which is 36 additional miles and only 4 miles from the West Yellowstone entrance. Puts me nice and close to the park and the campground is in the forest.

Option 2: Forget Bakers Hole and go just 18 miles further from Bakers to Madison Campground inside Yellowstone. This is 50 miles more than the base plan. This option is best as Swati will be coming to spend some time with me in Yellowstone and Grand Tetons and this option allows me to spend two nights at Grant which is logistically closer to her lodge.

As usual I would access my physical condition as I reach a location to determine what the next course of action should be.

Sound Sleep:

For once my phone's alarm clock beat me to the punch! It was 7:30am and I wanted to be on the road by 8:30am so I sprung from bed and immediately ate a breakfast of cereal, OJ and coffee. I opened the door to bring my bike outside and OMG was it ever gloomy and cold outside. It had to be like 40 degrees with a colder wind chill. What a temperature swing from yesterday! I immediately went back in and threw on my cycling tights and smart wool. After loading the bike I was shivering so I then broke out the Showers Pass rain coat. I usually sweat my butt off when wearing it so it should do the trick. I hopped on and headed south.

Ride to Westfork:

I can only describe the next 32 miles as "frigid hell". I've been warmer while biking to my office during the Chicago winters! After 5 miles of pedaling I started to warm up and sweat due to the Shower Pass rain jacket. Even stopping to take it off was painful! At this point I decided to get rid of the tights too because I don't want to stop again due to sweat and feel the cold wind gusts. Besides, I'd rather be dry and cold than wet and cold. As long as I keep generating heat by pedaling I should be okay. Even worse was the wind from the downhills. I couldn't wait to reach the bottom so I could start pedaling again! To make matters worse I would start to feel sporadic rain drops. Had it rained I would have been done for as there wasn't any shelter in the vast plains of Montana. Argh it was awful. I decided no breaks until I get to Westfork.

Around 10:30am I eventually came to and passed Westfork. The weather was still the same as when I left Ennis so the decision to push on was made. I delayed my break long enough and when a rest area approached at mile 33 I entered. The only shelter was the men's restroom. I grabbed my water bottle and some trail mix and hung out in the loo. Guys would come in and almost all say "pretty cold and windy eh?" I would reply "that's why I am loitering around in here!". A chuckle later and they were on their way. While it was cozy in there I wasn't making any progress so it was time to depart. Besides, I didn't want to be the creepy guy hanging out in the bathroom. :)

Ride to Bakers Hole:

The road curved to the east and I entered a mountainous region. As I entered the region around mile 45 the weather started to break. The sun punctured through just enough to provide some much needed warmth. I broke for lunch right around noon which happened to also be mile 50. I had just peaked a 5% grade climb and the setting was perfect. Mountain directly to my left and a river to my right. Just gorgeous. Cherry pop tarts were just what the doctor ordered! I removed my smart wool and continued on. Highway 287 or Hebgen lake road consisted of incremental steps in elevation. Certainty nothing as extreme as the passes I've done already but just enough to keep you honest. It runs along the northern edge of Hebgen lake which is quite scenic and you almost forget you are actually riding a bike.

Hebgen lake road eventually junctions with Gallatin road which is where I turn and head south towards Bakers Hole campground. At around 1:30PM I passed the entrance to Bakers Hole. I was only 4 miles from the Yellowstone entrance. I can't stop now! Besides it was still way early in the day!

Ride to Madison:

I arrived in west Yellowstone around 1:45pm. Madison campground was 14 miles into the park so I craved some calories for the last leg. Conveniently there was a McDonalds so I stopped in washed down an apple pie with an iced coffee. I briefly took advantage of the wifi and caught up on some email.

I made my way to the Yellowstone entrance. The sweet lady asked how may miles I did today. She was shocked when I said 71. Come to think of it, considering the crappy morning weather, I was too. I felt like I could easily continue for another 30. She then asked which campground I was heading too. Madison was full but she said "don't worry we take care of you cycling guys" . "They will set you up at the hiker biker section" . I smiled and she handed me a map and she said "only 14 more miles to go. Yay!".

By this time the clouds had completely dissipated and the blue sky was filled with sunshine! I had the biggest grin on my face as I pedalled the winding roadway towards my destination. The scenery was breathtakingly beautiful. I was hoping to see some bison but instead saw what I think was a baby moose. I'll take that I thought. As I continued I couldn't help but think pushing on was definitely the correct decision. I then audibly thanked my legs for their outstanding effort today. I really put them through hell and back and they didn't complain one bit. :)

Campground:

I reached the campground and registered at the front office. A nice young man named "joe" took me to my camp area which happened to be behind the registration office. He said pick any open spot! He also said they provide free coffee to hikers and bikers and to just knock at the back door. He also said they would charge my portable devices as well as microwave anything if I needed it. Wow! They really do take care of us!

There was only one other tenter/hiker in the hiker biker section so I had free reign! I selected a spot and before setting up camp sat down and snacked on some tortilla chips. I always setup camp before eating so I must have been really hungry! :) After a few blissful minutes I setup camp, changed clothes and headed out to explore a bit.

Exploration:

I didn't have the energy levels to do any sort of serious hiking so I decided to first check out the amphitheater to see what time the presentation is. Tonight's presentation is on Yellowstone's geology is at 9pm. The amphitheater is situated a few hundred yards from the Madison river so I decide to take a nice stroll along its banks. While it is technically a river it was only knee high in most places so I decided to to take off my tevas and socks and walk in the river itself. Oh how refreshing! I then sat on the bank and enjoyed some peanut butter crackers while gaping at all the natural beauty surrounding me. Just awesome!

Dinner:

After my exploration I decided it was time to prepare dinner. Tonight's dinner was freeze dried mac and cheese. Yum! For dessert I had oreos and a hot cup of tea. I then quietly sat at the picnic table cranking out this post until it was time for the presentation at the amphitheater. Perfect timing... Perfect day!